63 Commer water pump question.

Hey y'all, hope everyone is well. I have a quick question, where the water pump mounts to my engine, there is a metal plate that mounts to the water pump and blocks one of the waterways that lead to the pump. With the plate installed, only one waterway accesses the pump and with the plate not installed, 2 waterways access the pump. Which way is it supposed to be. Any info would be appreciated. Cheers
 
Hi Jason, the plate must be in place and the round port in the block covered by the gasket, only the elongated outer port is used for the pump outlet. The pump actually overhangs the block on one side and the plate is held to the pump with a countersunk bolt and nut, without the plate the pump wouldn't seal against the block. Not sure why the round port is there - probably just part of the casting process.

bth_IMAG0017.jpg

Summer's Coming
 
Thanks for that but I need to know before putting the pump back why the gasket covers the other hole. I am assuming you have one hole for coolant to pass to the pump. I am also having overheating issues and have a new rad to install. I want to get to the bottom of this overheating issue so I put a new pump, thermostat, ran a hose in the water passageways of the motor to clean any obstructions, I also have an electric fan and I use 50 /50 coolant. I removed the pump to make sure it was working because i installed a new one last year and still overheated. And I am 100 percent sure it is overheating because the coolant boils in the upper rad hose.
 
Hi Jason, whatever the other port is for it should be covered by the plate - it is definitely not used. Hopefully the new radiator will cure the problem but I'd give the system a good pickling with Radflush or similar as well to help flush out the waterways.
Another reason of course could be the head gasket but hopefully that's not the case:I

bth_IMAG0017.jpg

Summer's Coming
 
Well I did a pressure test on the system and it did not loose any pressure at all so the head gasket must be okay. I'm hoping the rad cures the problem even though the original one seems to be fine.
 
Have you removed the fan blades from the pump? I tried an electric fan and did not have success. It was down to the cowling around the fan and ended up putting the original fan back and never overheated again. The cooling is so marginal that any loss of efficiency and it will overheat.

I just need a good rootes...
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I put everything back together except for the fans blade, I mounted an electric fan in front of the rad and I had the van idling for about 40 minutes and it was not overheating at all, infact if I accelerated it would get cooler. The water pump works as when I accelerate, the level of water drops in the rad which is perfect. When I put my 9 lb rad cap on to seal the system, it seemed to almost overheat. I ordered a 20 pound rated rad cap, installed it and it seemed to run a lot cooler but does pass the half way mark which I'm not too fond of. I have yet to put the van under load ( driving) to see how it reacts but I'm hoping it will go well. I haven't drove it because I am currently in the process of installing air suspension on all 4 corners which is another headache on its own... Well just the front. Do you guys know of any other way to keep the van running a little cooler....perhaps running an inline auxiliary water pump on the lower rad hose? Any suggestion are greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Sometimes an electric fan mounted in front of the rad can restrict the air flow, one mounted behind is better if possible. I would suggest putting the original fan back on to see how it performs with the new radiator and, as suggested earlier, make sure the fan cowling is in place.
Just above half way on the gauge is fine, it would be a good idea if you can get hold of an infra red temperature gauge to see exactly what the temperature is at the top hose.

bth_IMAG0017.jpg

Summer's Coming
 
Fans that push are far less efficient than fans that pull, and as Panky says, can block airflow.
Chances are it was a partially blocked rad, but you won't really know until you drive it.
You can add a bottom section to the lower air scoop to help duct air in.
And also plumb in another smaller rad. I did both with Dodgyslyder and it doesn't get anywhere near overheating under any conditions [^]
I used a bike rad in the heater return line and mounted it in front of the o/s wheel :)

4650583641_dba2503b41_o.jpg

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
Back
Top