Up and running, couple of issues...

jimberlake

jimberlake

0
Van all back together just and running well bar a water leak from somewhere. However brakes didnt bleed up well so the question is is there an order I should do them in? Also I seems to have a red light on the dashboard even with the key out! No idea what it is any ideas what would cause that as having to disconnect the battery at night :) ta
 
Is it the ignition light? Could be an alternator fault.
The brakes should be bled N/S rear, O/S rear N/S front the O/S front, always work in from the furthest away from the master cylinder.
I seem to remember you having a servo, make sure there's no air trapped in there by cracking the highest connection. Try doing this first before going onto the rest of the system.
 
Water leak? Funnily enough I have just this weekend replaced the two notorious core plugs on my 1725 engine, namely behind the dipstick tube and behind the flywheel...
 
Core plugs all brand new. Leak no probs, will be something simple for sure but electrics are my nemesis.
The light in question I don’t think I’ve ever seen on before, comes on just with battery connected and goes off when ignition is switched on. Also noticed the amber light on very low (this goes on bright when ignition switched on...this could be a mare. To your point Panky, the ammeter climbed very slowly and stopped at a bit above 11 V so maybe some bad alternator wiring somewhere.

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That does't look right, should be about 14. It does look like an alternator issue but double check all the connections.
The battery is on the right way round?
 
Hmmm good point :) I think so will check tomorrow., thanks Panky for the tips for n brakes. MOT Monday so tomorrow is the day to complete :-0
 
So runs well but getting just over 12v to battery and if disconnect the battery it stalls instantly so pointing to alternator I think. Anyone know if there’s a fuse somewhere to it? Or how to check the output direct from it? Ta
 
No fuse in the alternator circuit. To check the output first put a volt meter across the battery, fully charged and healthy it should show over 12.2v _ if it's below 12 then it's goosed. Start the engine and measure across the battery again. When you read the voltmeter this time, the voltage should go up to at least 13. If varying the RPMs causes the voltage to fluctuate between 13 and 14.5 volts, your alternator is OK if, on the other hand, the voltage remains the same or decreases, your alternator isn’t working properly. Repeat the process with the lights etc on, the alternator is charging if the battery voltage stays above 13 volts with the engine at 2,000 rpm and all accessories on.
Have a look at the fan belt too, it could be slipping. Just a thought - have you changed any of the dash lights for LEDs? The ignition light needs to be a conventional bulb, to add a little resistance on start up, for the alternator to start working.
 
Ta P, can you measure the alternator direct from the back of it to elimate the wiring to the battery? I messed around with that but all looks ok. Ta
 
Yep no problem. But if you've been in there then I would suspect you nay have disturbed something - if everything was OK before.
 
Well dI’m me Panky is the alt. Took it apart and two wires between plates were corroded through, soldiered them up and the light has now gone off however still not charging so guess something else gone inside there.

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Bummer, nearly had it there. Must be a diode or something gone pop (I know nothing about alternators) How far is the MOT station away from you?
 
You probably already know but only use leisure battery to start it for emergencies. Using it frequently will kill it.
 
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