Rust treatment

C

cemtastic

0
Would like some advice on stopping the rust on the body work on my van until it can get repairs next year, what would be the best process?
Scrape off, wire brush, rub down, then what would be the best rust inhibitor to use and then what would I then apply as a temporary non attractive coat?
Any (good :) ) advice greatly received.
Thanks Cemlyn
 
For external body work use a knotted wire wheel, sanding disc, treat with Built Hamber De-Ox gel to kill/remove any lingering rust then a spray over with acid etch primer and a top coat of any cellulose paint you happen to have to seal it. A bit of a pallava I know but other than cutting the rust out it's probably the best approach.
For underneath a good going over with a wire wheel or whatever you can use to remove as much of the corrosion as possible then a good scoosh of Aquasteel rust inhibitor. Aquasteel isn't really suitable for exterior metal as I've found a skim of filler over any pitting treated with the product tends to lift after a while, it's fine if you paint straight over it but you won't get a good finish.
 
Another option is fertan I’ve read some good reviews about it so brought the company !!, not really only one bottle but it looks like it does what it says on the tin so far, not the fastest at drying but it is a little cold now and I’ve done exactly what panky said, fertan, primed and top coat not the finished colour just what I had and only for protection through the winter. So many options out there mate
 
For what it's worth, my approach is very similar to Panky's!
1) Wire cup brush in the angle grinder. This takes most of the flaky stuff off, but tends to polish some of the more stubborn deposits, leaving it looking clean and prepped when it's not!
2) 40 grit flapper cylinder in the electric drill. This cuts through the rest and makes the deeper pits visible. It also scratches, so I do sometimes use 80 or 120 grit versions. There is something similar available for the angle grinder, (bits of abrasive paper glued to a backing pad) but I find these too aggressive. I then scrape out any pits with a pick, (similar to the one the dentist uses).
3) Wash the area with hot, soapy water and a stiff toothbrush/scrubbing brush. It's amazing how much brown water comes off an area that looks clean! This step is essential - the rust particles sit in the pits and create small air pockets where rust can set in again! Get the area completely dry as quickly as possible. I use an old towel, then heat gun or hair dryer.
4) Paint on any phosphoric acid based rust converter. I have used several brands over the years and not had any trouble with any of them. Some brands just paint on and let dry, some paint on in stages then wipe off.
5) Prime! I use zinc primer. It's tough, has good filling properties for the pits and scratches, and sands easily.
6) Final prime and paint.
Good luck!
 
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