Question for Martin Maltas

Hi Martin,

I am looking at using lead loading on my Commer and I was curious to know if you get all your lead loading finished before sending any vans away for dipping or if you do any lead loading at all prior to dipping?

I am interested to know if dipping strips away the lead or not too.

Thanks.

View the Commer resto pics here: http://s786.photobucket.com/albums/yy149/bazil1972/

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Hi Bazil, No you can't do the lead loading before dipping, the acids used, disolve anything other than steel. Even if there is any areas previously done, these will be stripped off ;)

http://www.commervanspares.co.uk/

http://www.yorkshireclassiccampers.co.uk/
 
Thanks for that info Martin!

I have been doing more reading about Lead Loading and if time and finances allow it, it seems to be the filler of choice within the elite of the auto industry, one reason being due to the fact that normal filler is porous. not that it matters with the amount of layers of Primer, Paint and Lacquer I want to put on!

View the Commer resto pics here: http://s786.photobucket.com/albums/yy149/bazil1972/

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Lead will also flex with the panel. Ideal for areas around doors, where there is high movement and stress. I always try to lead load repaired doors, as filler will eventually crack, no matter how well applied ;)

http://www.commervanspares.co.uk/

http://www.yorkshireclassiccampers.co.uk/
 
Lead is sooooo much better than filler, go for it.
Don,t forget paint is porous too :)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
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Even more PRO's! Thanks.

I am due to buy a new Plumbing Torch (not the normal blowtorch) in the next few days and was wondering if these are suitable for Lead Loading?

View the Commer resto pics here: http://s786.photobucket.com/albums/yy149/bazil1972/

mybanner4ab7d769aa2c9.jpg
 
Basically yes. You don't need masses of heat, the key is cleanliness, the panels must be 100% clean. Gently warm the panels, brush on the solder paint (over a larger area than the repair), warm it till it turns silver. Wipe over with a lint free cloth (moleskin if you can get it). Then work the solder onto the panel in lumps, don't try to smooth it at this stage.
Then using a hardwood paddle, rub the paddle onto the tallon, then applying a little heat, use the paddle to spread the solder. Try to catch the solder just before it melts, semi liquid state.
Best to try it on a horizontal suface first, otherwise most of it will end up on the floor [B)]
The good thing about it is, if you make a mistake, gently warm it and run the paddle over it again. Catch any spoil in a tin, melt it down and re-use it, although you can only do this so many times.
Leave the solder high, then file down with a body file, don't use a sander, as the lead dust is not good for you [xx(] If you find any low points, gently warm the area and apply more solder ;)
Good luck and yes, the nice silver blobs do come off your boots :I


http://www.commervanspares.co.uk/

http://www.yorkshireclassiccampers.co.uk/
 
Thanks for all that info!

Frost do a very good Lead kit for 76.50 inc VAT, can't afford it right now, but I could do with finding soebody VAT registered in the near future ;)

View the Commer resto pics here: http://s786.photobucket.com/albums/yy149/bazil1972/

mybanner4ab7d769aa2c9.jpg
 
there wont be many more of those as Boydd coddington has passed away back end of last year.

I started this life with nothing, i still have most of it!
 
The rest are at ryans west coast customs (custom my ride) so they must have closed boydds place.

I started this life with nothing, i still have most of it!
 
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