Hey, I was just wondering what the normal operating temperature in farenheit the commer is supposed to be at. I have changed my waterpump because I broke the old one, put a new thermostat, flushed the rad, bleed the system, and put a new temperature sensor along with new coolant and do not want to damage the motor by driving it too hot. Any info on this would be much appreciated. I find that it sometimes reaches 200 degrees farenheit which I see on the guage and I let it cool off a bit. I also find that the top rad hose is much hotter then the bottom rad hose. Thermostat opening too late?? Water pump not doing its job?? Any thoughts or opinions??
overheating issue?
- Thread starter Jason
- Start date
Beachboy
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Your radiator core may well be partially blocked, if your van has lain idle for a long time without anti freeze in the cooling system some of the channels can become rusted solid but the rad will still appear to flow properly when flushed.
I had this problem with my Jennings and the engine seized!
it would be worth getting the rad checked properly or just invest in a recore.
Bloody Commer`s!
I had this problem with my Jennings and the engine seized!
it would be worth getting the rad checked properly or just invest in a recore.
Bloody Commer`s!
My opinion would be is that the new temperature sensor you bought for your van isn't matched to your gauge. The sensor must be the correct one for your gauge. There is probably nothing wrong with you engine cooling. Yes, the top hose is always hotter than the bottom as its where the hot water exits the engine. The water coming out of the bottom hose is usually many degrees cooler having passed through the radiator.
If I were you I'd fit a new temp gauge and sensor out of a kit. The modern ones also have their own voltage stabiliser, so are more accurate.
If ini doubt, if you know someone who has an infra red temperature measuring device, use that to rad the temp at the top hose and bottom hose. The top hose should be around 85 (0r at least close to what your thermostat is) and the bottom should be around the 50 Celsius mark. The fact your top hose is hot means the thermostat is working.
That's my advice. Fit new temp gauge. I think the rest is ok. Putting a new sensor on is always open to such temp misreading.
Andy
If I were you I'd fit a new temp gauge and sensor out of a kit. The modern ones also have their own voltage stabiliser, so are more accurate.
If ini doubt, if you know someone who has an infra red temperature measuring device, use that to rad the temp at the top hose and bottom hose. The top hose should be around 85 (0r at least close to what your thermostat is) and the bottom should be around the 50 Celsius mark. The fact your top hose is hot means the thermostat is working.
That's my advice. Fit new temp gauge. I think the rest is ok. Putting a new sensor on is always open to such temp misreading.
Andy
In your position the first thing I'd do is use an infra-red thermometer to measure the actual temp to see how accurate your sensor/gauge combination is. If it is accurate the next thing is to remove the radiator and flush it backways and frontways several times until you get nothing but clean water coming out. If poss do the same for the engine waterways. This will remove the loose sludge but won't do much for any caked on stuff. Put it all back together and test it. If the gauge is not accurate either put some stickers on it with the true temp (cheap option) or as Andy suggests, buy a matched gauge and sensor and fit them. Also worth looking at the water pump to make sure the vanes haven't rusted away.
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Baz, he's just put a new water pump on!
Jason, the most likely cause of your needle being at the maximum point of the gauge is that your temperature sender is not the correct one for the gauge you have. You said you just replaced it - are you sure it is the right sensor? Different gaiges have different requirements. It is IMPERATIVE you fit the right one. Buying a random one wont work. If you haven't had overheating problems with the same rad before changing the waterproof, it is unlikely to be overheating now.
I would almost guarantee that that is the reason for your needle being close to the maximum mark. On my first van I had the same thing. And after replacing all, the cooling parts: radiator, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing... It was still always at the maximum on the gauge. We measured the temp of the coolant going into the rad and coming out, and it was normal. Fitted a new temp gauge - needle bang in the middle of the gauge. It was the gauge all along.
Get a new gauge and matched sender. TIM do a nice cheap one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tim-Electric-Water-Temp-Temerature-Gauge-Kit-with-Fittings-52mm-700012-/280780814736?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415fd73990#ht_500wt_689
Jason, the most likely cause of your needle being at the maximum point of the gauge is that your temperature sender is not the correct one for the gauge you have. You said you just replaced it - are you sure it is the right sensor? Different gaiges have different requirements. It is IMPERATIVE you fit the right one. Buying a random one wont work. If you haven't had overheating problems with the same rad before changing the waterproof, it is unlikely to be overheating now.
I would almost guarantee that that is the reason for your needle being close to the maximum mark. On my first van I had the same thing. And after replacing all, the cooling parts: radiator, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing... It was still always at the maximum on the gauge. We measured the temp of the coolant going into the rad and coming out, and it was normal. Fitted a new temp gauge - needle bang in the middle of the gauge. It was the gauge all along.
Get a new gauge and matched sender. TIM do a nice cheap one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tim-Electric-Water-Temp-Temerature-Gauge-Kit-with-Fittings-52mm-700012-/280780814736?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415fd73990#ht_500wt_689
Thanks thowman. The thing is I changed all those cooling parts during the restoration. I never drove the van before the restoration as it was stopped for 35 years. I dont know what the guage was reading before. But you made a good point and I am probably going to buy a new sensor with matching guage and see what happens but before that, I am going to put the old one back in if I still have it and see if that does the trick.
quote:
Originally posted by greg
The thermostat should open at 185-192F and not fully open until 213F, according to Manual.
Wouldn't hurt to remove and test the thermostat by heating up in water in a saucepan and see what temperature it works at.
my thermostat is the other way - stuck open so the engine takes for ever to warm up
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Originally posted by greg
The thermostat should open at 185-192F and not fully open until 213F, according to Manual.
Wouldn't hurt to remove and test the thermostat by heating up in water in a saucepan and see what temperature it works at.
my thermostat is the other way - stuck open so the engine takes for ever to warm up
The Dog is home....
http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
I never managed to find a new temperature sender to match the guage when I snapped the spade end of the other when replacing the stop light switch. Never had any overheating porblems before the change so was defo the sender vs guage ciompatibility (it just rose straight off the scale even before the engine was at full running temp when replaced). Speedies and MM were the same so I bought an old spares one off e-bay, not spot on but now normal runnign is 1/2 way between the N and top end of the guage. Mine is a 1966 van so might be an age thing for the new spares. Shame you didn't know if it was overheating before but quite possible that is your issue.