Hot cranking issues...

jimberlake

jimberlake

0
Always cranked slow after a run and chased cables etc but only just thought might be heat soak into the starter from the exhaust causing resistance. It manifested this weekend after a motorway run when it wouldn’t turnover for a few minutes. With the alloy engine the manifold passed within 10mm of the starter itself, not sure if different on iron heads. Going to make heat shield this week and hope it clears the problem. Is it something anyone else has seen before?
 
The twin down pipe system does run close to the starter and there's not a lot of room to move it away. I fitted a hi-torque starter from Ratsport, it's a bit smaller so clearance is a little better but it has to be put together in such a way to get that extra bit of clearance.
Is yours a newish starter?
 
Yer new about a year ago think and little mileage. Hotter the engine gets the worse it is so sure it’s that. Got some exhaust wrap, more gold tape ;) and some metal heat shield from a camping cooker so between them should help. Also got a Martin 4 branch to fit sometime which seems to pass much further away just not got time to fit it yet
 
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My T25 has suffered from the same problem from time to time. There was corrosion on the interconnector between the solenoid and starter body, then a few months ago I had to change the solenoid because of corroded terminals. It only ever happened when the starter was hot.
If you operate the starter in the dark, you may see a little firework display where the bad connection is.
 
Cheers Colin, it’s pretty new and the Spacevan starter so no solenoid on it just a starter body. All connection seem good to me
 
I had the same problem. My starter has a cap on the end with 3 screws, and one of the screws wriggled free, and the others loosened. The shaft would angle down so the starter was fouling on the inner housing. Worse when hot. After that the issue reoccured but the second time it was the solenoid. Before it went out completely it was poor starting hot.
 
Thinking about it, it’s a different engine so old style with a remote solenoid rather than on the starter. Yer going to gold tape the starter. wrap the exhaust and make up a shield.
Another daft question I’m sure...trying to test voltage drop on cranking but when I put the volt meter from +’ve on battery to the +’ve on the starter it’s showing 12.7v without cranking? Surely that should reading 0v otherwise it would always be cranking? Clearly I’m getting something wrong here, but assume the remote relay creates that circuit on cranking so confused
 
Pretty sure that the Spacevan starter has a built-in solenoid so it needs permanent power to it. Operating the starter closes the solenoid and completes the circuit within the starter motor.
 
Think it’s a remote solenoid next to the battery , really scratching my head here - it all works I’m sure the issues are just the heatsoak but I hate when I can’t work something out like this . The main battery +’ve wire feed goes into the remote solenoid on one side and then another main feed out of the solenoid down to the starter itself, ignition wire also goes into the solenoid which I assumed would make the main feed live when turning the key, however the main feed to the starter itself from the other side of the solenoid is always live even with ignition off which would seem to say it would always be turning which of course it isn’t. The starter itself only has a single feed, the main one.

You probably need to just ignore me as it appears to all work :) doing my head in though
 
jimberlake said:
.........................when I put the volt meter from +’ve on battery to the +’ve on the starter it’s showing 12.7v without cranking.................
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That's exactly how it should be. The remote solenoid is open, so the 12V shows up across it when not cranking. It should drop to 0v when cranking. If you put your voltmeter across each joint in turn as you're cranking and it shows more than 0.1v you might find your problem.

It's so long since I did petrol engines, I thought only lawn mowers had remote solenoids!
 
Does it give a good voltage reading on the other side of circuit when turning ignition on. Could the relay be affected by the heat and not closing properly?? Remember having to do that to see if my motorcycle battery was duff by checking voltage drop during cranking
 
was going to suggest a cold shower but then realised it said cranking
the shaft out of the starter motor with the spinning gear can become inefficient due to lack of lubrication
if it persists i would remove the starter motor give it a good clean and reoil
the gear should move effortlessly up and down the shaft when spun by hand
electrical readings can be a complete red herring
 
To do a cranking voltage test, put your meter across the battery. When cranking it should stay above 9v
 
Not sure if it matters but I usually start the engine with the clutch in. When hot I have to start with it out in the van.
 
You shouldn't start with the clutch in as pressure is put on the crank thrust and, when the engine is cold, lack of lubrication will cause drag and accelerate wear on the bearing.
 
Ah that’s worth knowing. I was always taught to put clutch in in case it’s in gear also most motorcycles have safety switch in clutch lever so you have to. I will remember that
 
The manual can go and get stuffed. I don't play by the rules.

Apart from this case where I do have the clutch out.

But I'm still a rebel. It's just a co-incidence, honest.
 
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