Changing King Pins

sunbeamsam

sunbeamsam

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Nasty MOT Man says this needs to be done:(

I've got some new replacements - but having not done this job before I was wondering if anyone has any top tips?

Can I nail this in a couple of hours after work or this a 'Saturday job'?

Many thanks

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I am hoping to do one side this saturday so will let you know:D. I am allowing a day for one side but if it goes OK might just get them both done:p I don't know what I am doing but my friendly mechanic teacher does so hopefully it goes smoothly.
 
It is a saturday job unless you have better luck getting the cotter pin and king pin out[}:)] Took about 5 1/2 hours.

I quote ' drive the cotter pin out with as brass drift taking care not to damage the thread' (or something like that). Has anyone ever actually managed this?????:p

Ok so gave it a few good whacks and nothing so ground it flush with carrier and gave it some hammering with a punch and big hammer. Still nothing so started drilling it out from the front. Still nothing even once about a 1/3 in with as much hammer as you can get under a commer van. So drilled out from the other side (seeing as way past the point of no return) and eventually with one more whack it finally budged. Turns out we had drilled all the threaded end off and into virtually the length of the tapered end. I think it only budged because a small section had actually gone through the edge of the pin (not the housing) on the tapered end.

King pin (considering the previous movement in it) was also mega tight. Don't have the proper extraction tool so used a bolt with a socket and washers to space it and pulled the pin like that. This was a two man job with frantic wiggling of the stub axle and turning on the bolt. Had to unthread a few times to add washers as the pin came down. We had a break after a while once it had finally moved a bit. Slow and steady on it to protect the thread but it definately seemed to help wiggling the stub axle a lot (although at times this required a full body shuffle sort of action:I). When wiggling the stub axle put something over the thread it is sharp (I know now).

It is really only getting the two pins out that was a problem the rest is just undoing a few bolts really.

Now it is back together there is no movement at all:p:p:p:p which was good as was a bit unsure whether the movment in the main was the wheel bearings as I couldn't see much movement in the pin/bush even though you could feel it. Going to leave the other side till after commerfest I think as that one didn't get an advisory.

Sure people will have tips on how to get the pins out more easily. We did use heat when we did the intermediate steering relay.
 
Sounds like you've done a top job, there have been others who have spent a lot longer on the job. There is a little bit of play in Harveys kingpins so it's a job I will have to tackle at some point:I

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Harvey the RV
 
I have a horrible feeling I might have to do Percy's for the next MOT as was an advisory last time around but only done 50 miles since last MOT. Thanks for the info

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Percy-1975 Highwayman...http://66.129.69.181/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2147
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I too took 5 1/2 hour to get one off...

Took 2 hours with a chisel to scrape all the bloody underseal, wax and grease off the brake back plates, uprights and alike (was over an inch think in places!) then about another hour with a stiff brush and some petrol follow by the jet wash. Never knew there were so many grease nipples hiding under there - guess that's why I need to do the king pins.

I unbolted the whole upright assembly then removed the king pin with it held in a vice. The hardest bit was getting the well rusted in split pins out. Think I'll be replacing the castleated nuts with nylocks.

Stan will be swearing at me but - the cotter pine came out with a gentle tap with the handle of a plastic screw driver... The replacements that came with the kit seem a bit bigger?

Drifted the king pin bushes with some sockets and a hammer and managed to use the vice jaws to squeeze in the new ones.

all went back together nice and tight. Just need to put it back on the van.

Still got the other side to take off and do.

Has got me wondering about springs and shock upgrades... any ideas? The shocks need to be 10.5 inches compressed and 15 inches extended (measuring from mounting centres/points).

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Tap with a plastic screw driver [}:)] I would have had mine done in 2 hours if the cotter pin just popped out:( (and the king pin). there again if I didn't have my good friend the friendly mechanic helping me I would never have managed it myself at all. Undersealing over the grease nipples ouch[B)] get some grease in them all quick;)
 
For the front shocks i used a new set for a Toyota Hilux. These are almost the same as the originals but a bit stiffer. The only mod needed is to drill out the lower mounting a couple of milliameters to take a larger bolt to fit the slightly larger bottom eye of the toyota shocks. I confess i have not yet had a test drive on them but they went in a treat and look the part. I am assured that thier ratings are well up to a commer. Can post a model number if you want. Cheers

A commer down under - or down under a commer?
 
Cheers Iceman - I would indeed be interested if you have apart number to hand. A Hilux must weigh about the same as a commer. Think I'll have a look on ebay.

Finished both sides now, doing the kingpins is quite straight forward, its just all the faff of taking everything apart and putting it back together again that takes the time...

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No worries. Will pop into the garage in the morning and see what the model is.
I have spent approx 60 or 70 hrs on the front suspension alone. Total resto to better than new. Hope it all works....

A commer down under - or down under a commer?
 
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