Wiring Diagram - 1969 Commer Bluebird 'Tilly'

Martin Selwood

New Member
Hello y'all. We are going to completely re-wire our baby Tilly during her rebuild, for safety, reliability and to add a few bits. So, as I removed every wire, I made these diagrams from my notes.... 863CB1F9-6F50-4D01-894E-C9FEE467D42F.jpeg
 

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Panky

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks Martin that is very useful - you can actually read it ;) It would be good if you could add the model year to the drawing as there were some differences through the production run.
I've stickied this for future reference
 

S0updragon

Well-Known Member
I’m finally going to upgrade the fuse box with separate fuses. 1972 Pb so wiring is a little different but your simplified diags are a useful base point. 1 question as original lights don’t pass through a fuse do they have to have a constant live feed by law or can they be ignition live?
 

jimberlake

Well-Known Member
I’m not sure by law but many relay them from a direct feed regardless to reduce the current going through the old wiring - I did this last year as the wiring used to get a bit hot through the dash switch.
 

S0updragon

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks. I have been told about relay too and it’s something I’ll do. Changed all my bulbs to led apart from original sealed headlamps. It was either put an idiot light on dash or feed via ignition as I’m forever walking off and leaving them on lol
 

Martin Selwood

New Member
Part of our new wiring plan was to create two little fuse banks to help manage things, so we will have one Constant Live bank and one Ignition Live one. I would still go with the relay (to prevent too much load going through the switch) - but if you consider the 2nd fuse box you can just draw the heavier lighting load (on a thicker wire) from the Ignition Live fuse box - but now your future proof, and if you need another Ignition live it's easy.
 

Martin Selwood

New Member
Just to complicate things now - There are 'NO' and 'NC' relays. Which means 'Normally Open' and 'Normally Closed'. The most common is Normally Open (Off) and when you power it up it closes (On). If you want to get fancy, get a 'Normally Closed' relay and use the power from your lights straight to a buzzer, then use you ignition feed to turn the relay on and off. So, when the Lights and Ignition are on the relay Opens (off) and the buzzer stays quiet. Then if the lights are on, but the Ignition is Off you will get a buzzer to warn you.
NO and NC relays are 4 pin relays - If you get a 5 Pin relay, it does both.
 

S0updragon

Well-Known Member
Ooh now that is going to test my limitations. Happened to be in my local parts place when reading this and they do 5 pin ones. Changeover and non changeover?? Which means nothing to me.
 

jimberlake

Well-Known Member
I switched to non sealed and put in some good bulbs a few years ago, the difference is amazing, then adding the direct feed it all got even brighter, was planning to fit spots at one point but proper lights up the road now and only drops .3v on full beam allowing the alternator to still give over 14v, very different to before and quite simple to do - I’m certainly no electrician :)
 

jimberlake

Well-Known Member
Seem to remember they are the same as classic mini’s so plenty available. I got some iridium blue/yellow for full retro effect
 
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